“Spiders’ nap” an easy Summer’s cardigan

Long ago, probably years! that I wanted to make myself a very loose summer cardigan ; for one reason or another I had not done it.  Not having the “just right” material and pattern for it were these reasons.

thankfully this summer I found a solution for both these problems, when I went to another  yarn shop and found the perfect cotton and in regards of the pattern I just followed the basics of raglan.

That is why this is not a proper pattern but more like a guide.

I decided to call it spiders’ nap because it is so very simple!

“Spiders’ nap” a simple summer cardigan 

This design is very adaptable to any measurement, the only thing you have to do is to follow some steps to make sure the cardigan fits right.


200 grams (depends on size , this is what use for mine) of cotton, in my case use Patons “Sorrento” – this has been discontinued instead you could use any cotton blend with viscose that calls for 3.5 mm needles.  Sorrento cotton blend is thick and thin and makes it so nice; it’s the feature of the cardigan itself.

100 grams of cotton Yarn , one that is heavier than the main material.

6 mm circular needles

2 stitch holders (or wool remnant)

10. Stitch markers – you can find lovely ones here at this link

5 mm Crochet hook


This part is very important, your cardigan right measurements depend on this.

Work 20 stitches for 20 rows In stockinette stitch (One row in Knit the other in purl) this is the stitch used for the cardigan, if you wish to use a different one , then work your sample with the chosen stitch.

When you finish the sample check that amount of stitches used per centimeter (or in two centimeters if that’s easier to measure) also check the number of rows per centimeter and writes the results in a notebook.


Measure around neck and shoulders (from where you want your cardigan to begin) , for this you will probably need someone else to assist you.

Now you have your neck measurement and you can calculate the amount of stitches needed using your conversion the sample.

Example: 2 stitches = 1 cm

neck measures = 45 cm

90 Stitches needed to start your cardigan from neck.

Dividing the raglan cardigan 

This cardigan works from the neck down , which also includes sleeves which you will leave on a hold once reeaching the armhole depth (under arm).

To divide this work you will need (8) stitch markers, located after and before the four increases.

the stitches will form some kind of C shape for the cardigan.

There are 6 spots that will have a certain amount of stitches that will remain unchanged.

1 stitch per front side and one in between increases around the arms.

I will use my own cardigan measurements as an example:

Number of stitches = 48 stitches (after using my sample to convert) 6 which will remain 1 all along, split the remaining 42 in proportions here explained

Front: 1 stitch

 stitch marker – 1 stitch in between raglan increases  – stitch marker

Sleeve: 9 stitches(21.42%)

stitch marker – 1 stitch in between raglan increases – stitch marker

back: 24 stitches (57.14%)

stitch marker- 1 stitch in between raglan increases – stitch marker

Sleeve: 9 stitches (21.42%) 

stitch marker – 1 stitch in between raglan increases – stitch marker

front: 1 stitch

To make your calculations in stitches you only need to use this conversion table:

Sleeve = 21.42 X (the number of  total stitches taking away 6) / (divided by) 100 = amount of stitches  per sleeve, if The result is not a whole number round it up

Back = 57.14 X (the number of total number of stitches taking away 6) / (divided by) 100 = amount of back stitches , if The result is not a whole number round it up

Knitting instructions 

With all the stitch markers in place you are ready to Knit away!

How to make the increases? 

increases are only made when we do Knit rows , purl rows are worked without any increases.

DO NOT forget to make good use of the stitch markers.  When you Knit and you approach a stitch marker you have to do a yarn over , pass the stitch marker over , Knit the ONE stitch in between markers, pass the other stitch marker to the right needle and do another yarn over.

On the purl row , the yarn overs will be worked as purl accordingly.

Keep working like this until you reach the under arm.  Measure yourself around the arm making sure it fits.

When you have reached the measurements get ready to separate the arms using stitch holders or yarn pieces.

Knit until you reach the first raglan arm increase; and place all the arm stitches on a stitch holder.  Knit all through out the back and place all stitches that belong to the arm on another stitch holder. I decided to include the one isolated stitch (in between increases) to the arm stitches.  Remember trying to knit quite tightly in between the arms, front and back , in order to avoid a big space under the arm, which will be also stitched up in the end , so don’t stress too much about it.  In the following rows you can keep on working on this, too.

Front increases

even though the main increases (arms ) have been done, we need to keep increasing in the front.  We will do this until reaching the same amount of stitches we have in the back.

Increases take place always Knit rows.

First stitch is knitted, make an invisible increase, kNotting one stitch but using the right loop from the stitch just below, then Knit the same stitch as a knit, keep knitting until one stitch is left, and make another invisible increase in the same way. Do this until having enough stitches (both sides should sum up the same amount or close to , the amount of stitches of the back).

IMPORTANT! leave a stitch marker on each side on the very last increase you do. This will help you when crocheting the edge of your cardigan.

Arriving at the desired height, change to the other cotton and work in stockinette for another 15 rows and another 3 in garter stitch.

Cast off : knit first two stitches, pass the first over the second, leaving just one on the right needle, Knit one more and donthe same thing, pass the first stitch over the second, keep working this way until you have cast off all of them.

It is time to resume the sleeves

Place stitches from the sleeves to the circular needles.  Make sure you leave the inside of the arm (as oposite to the shoulder) at the start of your work if you are comfortable work it it’s the magic loop and two at once.

Resume knitting for 10 cm , after this we do decreases at the start and end off the round.

*Knit 1, Knit 2 together, Knit until 3 sts are left , slip next st to the right needle without knitting it, Knit the one after and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, Knit the last one*

Knit 5 more rounds

decrease on the next one

knit 3 more

decrease again for the last time(unless you prefer more decreasing)

change to heavier cotton for the last 15 rounds in stockinette and the very last 3 in garter stitch

when working with magic loop garter stitch or the effect of garter stitch has to be done like follows:

round 1: purl

R2: knit

R3: purl

cast off as shown above.

Cast off : knit first two stitches, pass the first over the second, leaving just one on the right needle, Knit one more and donthe same thing, pass the first stitch over the second, keep working this way until you have cast off all of them.

Crochet Edge

For this part, we will use the friend crochet.  Using single crochet

starting at the bottom of the cardigan:

ODD ROWS: 2 single crochet  where you left the stitch marker (where the last increased occurred) around the bust.

Single crochet 2 together where the raglan increasing happened.  (4 spots)

EVEN ROWS: single crochet all round

Total of rowls 5. OR more if you prefer, you can also work button holes if you want to add buttons to your cardigan.

divide the amount of stitches from where the last increase was(around the bust)  make one every 12 cm , and instead of working two single crochets replace them with 2 chains, you will single crochet in those on the next round and you will have button holes!

it is a very simple cardigan!

I hope you make it and share with me your results!

Please share this link 🙂


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